From Dole to Machhermo

We leave Dole early, descending to the river by about 8 a.m. to begin the long, steep climb up the ridge. A large group of trekkers are already on the trail, making their way up at a leisurely pace. It's a rather diverse group. A few people in their twenties are in the lead and the rear is brought up by a jovial group of retired Englishmen who stop to chat with everyone - us, their group members, guides and porters. Everyone walks at their own pace, and there is a lot of laughter, banter and conversation. After a week of goal-oriented trekkers, they are a pleasure to walk with. But soon Lakpa races ahead, impatient, and we have to follow, albeit not at his blistering pace. Halfway up the ridge, we run into the group's guide, a tall Australian. "That gentleman your guide? He's putting you through a good pace!", he exclaims as we pass him. He falls in beside us and strikes up a conversation. We learn his name is Chris, and this is his 19th trek in Nepal. Chris has trekked in India, and has lived in Calcutta for a while. He had a great time in Calcutta watching cricket matches, going to the races and pubbing. He finds it a fascinoiting city, he says, and laments that it hasn't been publicoised well enough. As we walk together, chatting, I discover that we are not out of breath any more, and the walk has suddenly become comfortable. Chris has set us our perfect pace. He falls back after a while to be with the older members of his group, with a cheerful "Take it easy".