We walk into Dole (4100m) at about 11:45 a.m. We halt for the night at the rather grandly named Alpine View Cottage. It turns out to be the only lodge in Dole without any electricity and hot water. Still, it’s empty, but for a couple of quiet Americans, and we look forward to practically having the whole place to ourselves. We sit on a bench outside next to a meadow with a view of Mt. Kantega, and wolf down our lunch.